It's time for us to make a onesie! Get these materials together:
- 3 yards fleece for body and hood
- 1.5 yards fleece for belly, hood lining, and accents
- scrap fleece for facial features
- Elastic for ankles and wrists
- Stuffing for tail, snout, and ears
Here are the pieces you'll need for the body:
- 1 Body front and back: shoulder to ankle length, over-extend the shoulders and sides to make it loose-fitting, use a round curve from the inner leg to the middle
- 2 Sleeves: Shoulder to wrist length, same width as armhole on body, do not make the slope from the shoulder to armpit too steep
- 4 Foot pieces: can generously surround a shoe, opening should be same width as leg opening
- 1 Tail circle: 5 inches wide
- 2 Belly halves: 5 inches shorter on both sides than the body
Below is how I laid out the pieces to be efficient with fabric. I folded the fabric twice along the long edge to create 4 symmetrical layers. Two notes about the pieces I cut, I should have made the inner leg curve for the body should have been much smoother instead of a rounded 90 degree turn. And second note, the slope of my sleeves from shoulder to armpit was too steep and my sleeves were too short. In total, 3 yards of fabric for body and hood is enough! I got another 1.5 in white fleece for the accents, and a skinny strip of black fleece for facial features.
The rest of the fabric was used to make the hood, my pieces were:
- 1 Hood back: 19" x 5" rectangle
- 2 Hood sides: 14" x 7" rectangle, with one rounded corner
- 1 Hood front: 45" x 8" rectangle, cut into a trapezoid of 34" on the narrow end
(these pieces need to be cut in outer fleece and lining)
And of course, Rilakkuma's face!
- 2 Eyes: 1.5" wide
- 1 Snout: 5" x 3" rectangle, cut into long pill shape
- 1 Nose and mouth: 3" x 1.5", fold in half to cut symmetrically
- 4 Ears: 5" x 3" semicircles
- 2 Inner ears: 4" x 2.5" semicircles
Let's make a onesie!
1. Fold the body back in half, right sides together, and sew with a straight stitch close to the fold to add a spine to the onesie
2. Cut the body front apart down the middle
3. Pin the white tummy onto the front pieces, tucking in the fabric along the curved edge and sewing all sides with a straight stitch
4. Lay the front pieces right sides together and sew along the straight middle edge, use a long stitch length (basting stitch) from the collar to the end of the zipper, and a regular stitch length for the remainder of the body
5. Pin the zipper (mine was 22") to the seam on the inside of the body front and sew down one side, around the bottom, and back up to the top
6. Use a seam ripper to remove the stitches from the collar to the bottom of the zipper on the front body centre, this will make the zipper usable!
7. Sew the body front and back together along the shoulders, right sides together with a straight stitch
8. Pin and sew the sleeves to the shoulders, right sides together with a straight stitch
9. Pin the sides of the front and back right sides together, aligning at the armpit, and sew from the sleeve all the way to the ankle
10. Pin the inner leg of the front and back right sides together, aligning at the middle seam, and sew the entire inner leg
11. Cut 4 pieces of elastic and seal into loops with a zigzag stitch (2 that can slip over the foot onto the ankle, and 2 that can fit the wrist but also stretch over the elbow)
12. Pin the ankle elastics around the leg opening, 1" away from the edge and sew with a zigzag stitch
13. Pin the wrist elastics around the sleeve opening along the edge and sew with a zigzag stitch, then fold the fabric inward twice to hide the elastic and seal with another zigzag stitch
14. Sew the 4 feet pieces into 2 feet by pinning right sides together in pairs and sewing around all edges but the top opening
15. Slip the feet into the leg opening with the right sides facing each other and sew around with a straight stitch, make triple sure you have the feet pointing in the right direction before you sew!
16. Add four small darts to the tail and pin onto the lower middle back of the body by tucking the raw edges under, use some stuffing to gauge how far apart the two sides of the tail should be pinned
17. Sew the tail in place with a straight stitch, but leave a 2" gap for pushing in the stuffing before sealing
The body is done!
18. Sew the back of the hood to the two side pieces, right sides together along the curved edge
19. Pin and sew the shorter side of the trapezoidal hood front piece to the curve of the hood, it should be touching the long straight free edge of the side pieces
20. Repeat the hood assembly steps with the lining fabric
21. Pin the snout to the hood front, 1" from the edge in a similar fashion as the tail
22. Sew on the snout, stopping when there's a 2" gap to push in some stuffing before sealing
23. Sew on the two eyes with no stuffing, similar to the tail and snout
24. Use washing machine-proof glue to attach the nose and mouth to the snout
25. Sew the outer hood to the lining, wrong sides together by folding in the raw edges along the front edge
26. Trim the lower back of the hood if it's uneven, then pin (don't sew yet) to the body collar, right sides together
22. Trim down the sides of the hood if it is longer than the collar, leave 1" extra on the hood from the collar on both sides so you can use that fabric to re-hem the edge
23. Re-hem the hood's front edge if needed
24. Sew the hood to the collar with a straight stitch along the pins we placed in step 26
And now for the ears, almost there!
25. Sew the ears right sides together into two pairs along the curved edges
26. Flip the ears onto their sides while inside out and add two darts opposite of each other, this should be at the middle of the straight edge for the ear pieces
27. Tuck and pin the inner ear to one side of the ears on the outside and sew with a straight stitch
28. Stuff the ears as much as you can!
29. Pin the ears to the hood by tucking in the raw edges, space it out to your liking and then hand-stitch through the ear and outer hood layer in small stitches all the way around
We made it! Here's the video of my process: